I don't know if Sea Gold caused the fish eyes. I also bought the pricey Epifanes thinner and gave the surface a good wipe-down in hopes of removing any oil/grease/other contaminants from the surface. So I have now sanded off the second coat and then some, and am now waiting for a low humidity day to try another coat.
It looked like it had thousands of tiny air bubble holes in it, and felt like a non-skid surface.Īfter doing some research, my guess was that I had fish eyes in the second coat, and the advice from Epifanes was that it had to be sanded off. And the second coat turned out pretty rough, both the surface texture and the look of it. After sanding according to the instructions, and wiping it off with Pettit Brushing Thinner, I applied the second coat. The first coat of Epifanes went on fine and looked great, except for some annoying brush marks and a few holidays. So I made a decision to apply at least a coat or two of Epifanes Clear Varnish before putting the deck on. It looked nice, but it didn't look "finished" to me. In fact, my interior looked virtually the same as it did before I put the Sea Gold on. I expected a "satin" finish to have at least some sheen, but my finish had absolutely none. However, I was surprised at the look of the finish after four coats. But it brushed on nicely, dried quickly, and didn't need sanding in between coats. I was a little taken aback when I realized that Sea Gold had a bit of a milky tan look to it, even after lots of stirring. I put 4 coats of Sea Gold on the inside of my new Lightning. I would only use this stuff again for a quick and easy project… its no substitute for traditional varnish. And then I needed to sand and reapply varnish to the areas that got torn away adding 3 more days to bring the project to completion.įinal verdict… I might has well just used traditional varnish because I didn't get it completed any faster using Sea Gold because I had to revarnish areas that got torn away when removing the masking tape. Removing the tape turned into a time consuming job. Even with using a utility knife, still there were a couple of spots where it still pulled away. After tearing the vanish off the wood along the first 6 inches of masking line, I used a utility knife to score the seam before pulling the rest of the tape off.
In pulling the tape off, the Sea Gold didn’t tear at the seam (between the masking tape and the finished wood surface) as it does with traditional varnish and instead pulled and tore away from the finished wood. I was very frustrated in trying to remove the painters masking tape I put down to protect the aluminum hull from being varnished where it mated with the wood. my impression was that the 120 isn't really required, but used to wipe off dust and residue, I used a tack cloth instead to remove the dust. perhaps the lifted wood grain is the result. I didn't wipe the wood down with Pettit 120 Brushing Liquid before applying Sea Gold. especially in areas with end grain on curved edges. My nice, smoothly sanded wood surface, after applying the first coat of varnish, became bumpy in some areas from the grain lifting…. The wood grain lifted as if it had gotten wet. The finish isn’t clear but “semi-transparent” leaving a bit of a muddy look to the grain. The dried Sea Gold had more of a plastic look to it… sort of like the cheap laminated wood flooring I ended up putting on a top coat of Captains varnish to get some “pop” (as suggested on the label) In my opinion the finish isn’t “satin”, its closer to a "matte" or "flat" finish. No sanding required between coats… however there were very slight brush marks ( I applied it with a brush) You can apply three coats a day ( I applied 6 coats total followed by a top coat of traditional Captains Varnish) I thought this would be a good application to try the Sea Gold as the finish doesn’t have to be perfect. I tried the Sea Gold on an old aluminum boat with new White Oak woodwork for seats, gunwales, splash rails, motor mount, and deck (Okoume plywood with White Oak dashboard).
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